Udall & Ballou 14k Two-Tone Gold Art Deco Ruby & Diamond Compact (94.70g.)
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Description
Udall & Ballou 14k Two-Tone Gold Art Deco Ruby & Diamond Compact (94.70g.)
This exceptional vintage compact by Udall & Ballou represents the height of American luxury vanity accessories during the Art Deco era. Fashioned in richly contrasting 14k two-tone gold and weighing an impressive 94.70 grams, the piece reflects the period when leading jewelers elevated everyday personal objects into miniature works of fine jewelry. Compacts of this caliber were prized accessories carried by fashionable women attending theaters, grand hotels, and evening events, serving as both functional cosmetic cases and statements of refined taste.
The design is lavishly ornamented with 21 rubies totaling approximately 2.38 carats, set in a striking combination of cabochon and princess cuts that create visual depth and bold geometric rhythm. Their vivid red tones are complemented by 28 round brilliant diamonds totaling approximately 0.28 carats (H–I color, I1–I2 clarity), which add refined brilliance and contrast to the richly colored gemstones. The interplay between the warm gold tones, vibrant rubies, and sparkling diamonds perfectly captures the dramatic elegance that defined Art Deco jewelry design.
Founded in New York in the late nineteenth century, Udall & Ballou was regarded as one of the premier American jewelers of its time and was often considered a peer to prestigious houses such as Tiffany & Co. The firm developed a strong reputation for producing finely crafted gold accessories, vanity objects, and jewelry distinguished by exceptional workmanship and sophisticated design. Pieces bearing the Udall & Ballou name represent a moment in American jewelry history when craftsmanship, artistry, and luxury presentation were paramount.
Despite its prominence, the company ultimately closed its doors in 1949, a casualty of the economic challenges surrounding World War II and the shifting postwar marketplace. As a result, surviving pieces from Udall & Ballou are increasingly scarce, particularly elaborate examples such as gem-set compacts crafted in substantial gold. Many were melted for their metal value or simply lost to time, making well-preserved examples like this highly desirable among collectors of Art Deco jewelry and historic American luxury goods.
With its impressive gold weight, dramatic gemstone decoration, and strong historical pedigree, this compact stands as both a functional object and an important example of American jewelry craftsmanship. Pieces combining colored gemstones, diamonds, and heavy gold construction from distinguished but now-defunct houses such as Udall & Ballou remain especially sought after, making this a standout acquisition for collectors of Art Deco vanity objects and fine period jewelry.
In excellent condition (9/10), this original, unaltered piece shows no damage or imperfections. PM Number: PM4010294.
Key Details:
- Designer: Udall & Ballou
- Material: Two-Tone Gold
- Purity: 585
- Weight: 94.70 grams
- Stamp: 14k
- Measurements: 28.60mm (Max Width) x 2.50mm (Min Width) x 6.00mm (Thickness)
- Inscriptions: "Udall & Ballou"
- Clasp: Push Lock
- Diamonds: 0.28tcw total, 28 Round Brilliant Cuts, Color: H–I, Clarity: I1–I2
- Gemstones: Rubies – 2.38tcw total, 21 Stones, Cabochon & Princess Cuts, Slightly Purple-Red; Some signs of wear including scratches and fractures
- Condition: Good (8/10)
This piece has been inspected and approved by our jeweler.